Photo by Arthur Hinton on Unsplash

Split, Croatia: I Came for a Day and Stayed for Four

I was supposed to be in Split for one day. Like, genuinely just a transit stop between Dubrovnik and Zagreb. I'd booked a hostel, planned to see Diocletian's Palace, maybe grab dinner, and move on. That was the plan. I woke up on day two, looked at the Adriatic Sea glinting off the harbor, and thought: "Yeah, I'm staying." Four days later I was still there, sunburned and completely broke in the best way.

Getting There (and Why Split Doesn't Feel Touristy Yet)

Most people fly into Split airport and immediately panic. The ride into the city is about 20 minutes, and if you're smart, you'll book it through Kiwitaxi beforehand—€12 flat rate, door-to-door, no negotiating with taxi drivers who'll try to charge you €30. I made this mistake on arrival (didn't book ahead, paid €18 for the same journey), so learn from my incompetence.

The city itself doesn't feel like a theme park version of Croatia, which was honestly shocking after how the Instagram content made it seem. Yes, there are tourists. Yes, there's a main strip. But venture five minutes into Varos neighborhood and you're eating seafood pasta at a family-run restaurant with locals who've never heard of TripAdvisor, paying €9 for a meal that would cost triple in Zagreb.

Diocletian's Palace (And Why the €10 Entry Fee Is Actually Worth Avoiding)

Okay, here's the thing about the Palace: you can walk through like 80% of it without paying. The official entry is €10, but honestly? The palace is a living, breathing neighborhood. You walk into the old town, you're basically in it. The real palace chambers require the fee, but I found better use for my €10 and just wandered the Roman columns, the narrow streets, the tiny cafés tucked under 1,700-year-old stonework.

Go early (like 7 AM early) if you want photos without crowds. I did this one morning and had the entire palace to myself for an hour. The light hitting the columns was insane—better than any Instagram filter could ever make it.

The Hvar Day Trip That Changed Everything

This is where I lost an entire day and €25. A guy at the hostel was organizing a sailing trip to Hvar—a nearby island known for lavender fields and, truthfully, being incredibly expensive. But the hostel was renting a boat and splitting costs six ways, so €25 each for a full day of sailing, snorkeling, and lunch on the island. I booked through SEARADAR for the boat logistics and met the group at the harbor at 9 AM.

We sailed for two hours with a local Croatian captain who knew every beach and cave along the coast. Swam in water so clear I could see my feet 10 meters down. Landed in Hvar town for lunch—€12 for fish and wine—and I spent the entire afternoon pretending I lived there. The sail back at sunset was the kind of moment that makes travel worth doing broke.

If you don't want to book a group, there are regular ferries to Hvar too (€10–15, about 1 hour), but the sailing thing spoils you.

The Road Trip I Didn't Plan On

Day three I woke up with an actual plan: rent a car, drive to Trogir (40 minutes away) and Krka National Park (1.5 hours). I booked through Localrent.com the night before—€28 for a full day with insurance included, which was cheaper than any counter at the airport had quoted. Picked up a little Renault Clio, and honestly, the drive was more interesting than the destination.

Trogir is a tiny medieval town across a bridge, and yes, it's beautiful. Took about 90 minutes to see everything. Krka Falls are legitimately worth it if you want to swim in turquoise pools surrounded by waterfalls—€10 entry, worth it. But the real memory was stopping at a random konoba (traditional tavern) on the drive back and having homemade risotto with squid ink for €7. The cook's grandmother was sitting at the bar. We talked about nothing important for 20 minutes.

Where to Stay

Guesthouse Split Backpackers is the move. €18/night, rooftop terrace overlooking the harbor, actual hot showers, and the owner books all the day trips for you. I paid €72 for four nights and would've paid more. There are cheaper hostels (€12–15 range), but they're further from the old town and honestly kind of grim.

The Food Reality

The main strip along the harbor charges €20+ for mediocre fish. Everyone knows this. What they don't tell you: Varos neighborhood is five minutes inland and completely different. I had the best seafood pasta of my life for €9 at a place whose name I can't remember. The server didn't speak English, which meant it was actually good.

For cheap eats: burek (flaky pastry with meat or cheese) costs €2–3, pizza is €4–6, and if you find a market (there's one near the train station), fresh fruit is absurdly cheap. I lived on €6–8/day for food.

Where to Go Next

• Dubrovnik, Croatia: Medieval City Without Losing Your Mind (or Money): Only 2 hours south, way less touristy than it seems
• Kotor, Montenegro: Fjords and €3 Beer: Further down the coast, equally stunning, half the price
• Budapest on €50 a Day: If you're continuing inland, this is the budget masterclass

Keep Exploring

3 Days in Budapest on €50 a Day

We thought we'd go broke in Budapest. Turns out, the best parts are the cheap ones. Here's exactly what we did, where we stayed, and what we ate.

Budapest • Mar 25, 2026 • 6 min read

Read the story →

This Random Hostel in Lisbon Was Insanely Good

Stayed at a tiny hostel near Príncipe Real. Cheap, clean, and we made friends with people we're still talking to. Found by accident, stayed on purpose.

Lisbon • Mar 20, 2026 • 5 min read

Read the story →